a bit of bitter history
Archeological evidence indicates that herbal bitters have been used for thousands of years by various cultures. Mithradates the Great, King of Pontus (134 to 63 BC) is reputed to have protected himself from his enemies by taking a daily dose of an antidote to poisoning that he developed called mithridatium, a formula that contained cassia, frankincense, cardamom, gentian root, myrrh, costmary, ginger, cinnamon, rhubarb, shepherd’s purse and about 40 other bitter herbs compounded in honey. Roman physicians adopted and improved the formula to produce a liquid tonic for their own use that required several weeks to age. A milder tonic of bitter herbs infused in wine was recommended to counter the effects of excessive indulgence in food and drink, activities the ancient Romans had an odd obsession with. The ancient Greek physician Hippocrates wrote extensively about the virtue of bitters and is credited with giving us the adage, “all disease begins in the gut.” Modern science recognizes this association. In fact, we now know that up to 80% of immune cells reside in the intestinal lining.
During the middle ages, bitters were quite popular all over Europe. In medieval England, monks tended monastery gardens of herbs for “official” use in the apothecary, which is why the scientific name of so many herbs includes the word “officinalis.” Canary wine, a pale yellow precursor to sherry, imported from the Canary Islands, was wildly popular with Elizabethans. Also known as sack, the fortified wine was referenced in Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night and The Merry Wives of Windsor. Herbal bitters later found their way to the American colonies, where Dr. Johann Siegert would produce his infamous Angostura bitters in the early 19th century. Although the temperance movement was in full swing at the time, it was considered acceptable to add bitters to alcohol to help the concoction go down. Ergo – the first modern cocktail was born. Today, Angostura bitters are a staple in every bartender’s inventory.
the bitter end
Bitters are suitable for nearly everyone, and may be made in a base of alcohol (usually rum or brandy) or in apple cider vinegar for children and others who cannot tolerate alcohol. To make the tincture more robust and palatable, a combination of bitter herbs and roots, aromatic flowers and herbs, and dried fruit peels are typically included. As a general rule of thumb, plan on using 50% bitter ingredients and 50% aromatics (see below), accented with a small amount of dried fruit peel. Grind, grate or crack open any ingredient that needs more exposure to infuse properly (i.e., cardamom pods or peppercorns). Place all ingredients in a clean glass canning jar (up to ½ full) and pour enough vinegar or alcohol into the jar to completely cover the material. Cap the jar and store in a cool, dark place for 6-8 weeks. Strain and decant the reserved liquid into clean dropper bottles and add a dropperful or two to water, tea, juice, broth or your favorite cocktail. Sensible caution: If you have a history of gastroesophageal reflux disease, a disease of the liver, gallbladder or bowel, a hiatal hernia or peptic ulcers, or if you’re pregnant, talk to your doctor before supplementing your diet with herbal bitters.
As previously mentioned, there are three basic components to most herbal bitter formulas – bitter herbs, aromatic herbs and fruit peels. Also, some materials, like fruit peels and ginger root, are both bitter and aromatic. There’s really no hard-and-fast rules about formulation, though, so go with your intuition and taste preferences. Here’s a guideline of potential ingredients…
Bitter
Dandelion root,
elecampane,
rue,
mugwort,
tansy,
wormwood,
gentian root,
horehound,
yellow dock,
burdock,
barberry,
turmeric root,
ginger root
Aromatic
Fennel seed,
star anise,
licorice root,
juniper berries,
peppercorns,
aniseed,
coriander,
lavender,
allspice,
cardamom,
thyme,
mint,
rosemary,
chamomile,
hops
Fruit Peel
Orange,
grapefruit,
lemon,
lime